New York: last look from
New York: last look from moving vehicle
The cab was waiting when I checked out of the hotel at 4:30 am this morning, groggy after a sleepless night- when you're used to sharing a bed with your wife and the cat, lying all the way at one side while wife and cat occupy 70% of the available bed space, you think having a king bed to yourself will be a treat, but it isn't, and you end up sleeping at the edge of the bed, just like always. Except that the room is devoid of that reassuring sound of the wife's snoring, the little silhouette of the cat's head you see staring back at you from just above your wife's leg isn't there, and the view and sounds at the window are definitely not home.
So, anyway, I'm groggy and I'm in the cab mumbling about needing to go to JFK for Sky Blue... er, Jet Sky... Jet Blue, and soon we're speeding past Ground Zero, looping onto the FDR, and we're off, onto that side road, up and over the Brooklyn Bridge, winding through warehouse neighborhoods in Williamsburg. And I'm looking out the window at a city I know very, very well, a city near which I grew up, looking at familiar places in the pre-dawn darkness and I thought the following:
- Geez, this city looks old.
Geez, this city looks rundown.
Geez, this city looks poor.
Why didn't I notice this before?
Of course, I did see it before, but being away from it for 8 years, being in a city that considers 1975 "history," makes a row of brownstones, a series of tall brick apartment blocks in a housing project with the boyz hanging in the courtyard, the furniture stores in warehouses- We Sell Direct! Department Store Quality at Wholesale Prices!- and the hospital missing letters off its sign and the delis and bodegas and cars and people... they all seem, I dunno, older than I remembered, a little dirtier, dustier, worn. Brooklyn and Queens looked like something you'd see in a sepia-toned, scratchy photograph from the early part of the last century.
Truth is, they're no different from when I was last there, or the times before that, or when I lived on the Island and we'd take the "scenic routes" to avoid the L.I.E. and Grand Central and Van Wyck and, especially, the Belt Parking Lot. It looked pretty much the same then, and it'll look pretty much the same 20 years from now.
The other day, I bought some food at Gristede's, and I threw a copy of the Daily News on the checkout belt, too. The lady ringing my purchases up looked at the back page with a color picture of sulking Lakers and said "Oh, man! Didn't you just love it when L.A. lost?" I said yes, I loved it, and I walked out into the cold Battery Park evening and thought, yeah, I loved it because I don't like the Lakers but not because I hate L.A. New York just seemed cold and dirty and kinda sad, and that's when I remembered what's changed over the last 8 years: me. I'm from California now.
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